Our UnCruise Adventures Expedition in the Sea of Cortez
We make our way back to Safari Voyager after another adventure in the Gulf of California. UnCruise's Safari Voyager carries up to 66 passengers, and we had 54 onboard during our early February expedition.
The Baja California Peninsula is an especially diverse and special part of Mexico.
The country offers so many beautiful places to enjoy, and I’ve been to a variety of locations in the Yucatan Peninsula, with its amazing blue waters, sandy beaches, serene and mystical cenotes and fascinating Mayan sites.
Baja California Sur, though, showed me another side of Mexico.
Actually, THE other side, where Mexico touches the Pacific Ocean and Sea of Cortez in the west instead of between the Caribbean Sea and Gulf of Mexico in the east.
And, of course, this geographic difference comes with a distinct climate, its own rich history and a whole host of interesting animals and landscapes that curious travelers will love to explore.
I was introduced to the region and all of its charms during a weeklong voyage with UnCruise Adventures on the small expedition ship Safari Voyager.
I am quite familiar with UnCruise and its small-ship cruising experiences. You see, this was my seventh expedition with the line, and I knew I could count on UnCruise's Sea of Cortez program as my best bet for an incredibly fun and enriching way to explore this part of the world.
Baja California Sur, though, showed me another side of Mexico.
Actually, THE other side, where Mexico touches the Pacific Ocean and Sea of Cortez in the west instead of between the Caribbean Sea and Gulf of Mexico in the east.
And, of course, this geographic difference comes with a distinct climate, its own rich history and a whole host of interesting animals and landscapes that curious travelers will love to explore.
I was introduced to the region and all of its charms during a weeklong voyage with UnCruise Adventures on the small expedition ship Safari Voyager.
I am quite familiar with UnCruise and its small-ship cruising experiences. You see, this was my seventh expedition with the line, and I knew I could count on UnCruise's Sea of Cortez program as my best bet for an incredibly fun and enriching way to explore this part of the world.
I love UnCruise trips for the variety of active excursions offered every day. We went out snorkeling in the cool waters a few times, necessitating use of these slimming and fashionable wetsuits.
The Beginning of the Adventure
I started my trip by flying into San Jose del Cabo on a direct flight from my home in Denver. UnCruise uses the luxury all-inclusive Barcelo Gran Faro resort as a host hotel for its Sea of Cortez itinerary. I chose to come in a day ahead of time to be well rested for the week ahead. Plus, I also liked the idea of exploring San Jose del Cabo for a day before we all headed to La Paz to embark Safari Voyager, our 66-passenger expedition ship and home for the week in the Gulf of California.
The resort offers meals, drinks, access to a beautiful beach, activities like beach volleyball, a huge pool, hot tubs and a spa. On the day of my arrival to San Jose del Cabo, I went out for dinner with fellow UnCruisers who quickly became new friends (this happens every time on an UnCruise trip).
The next morning, I hit the gym for a workout, had a massage at the resort spa and ventured to town to try the beer varieties at Baja Brewery Co. with my friend and fellow craft beer enthusiast Ashley.
The hotel stay is not included in your cruise fare, but UnCruise offers transfers from the airport to its Barcelo Gran Faro hospitality area for cruisers to assemble on the first day of your cruise itinerary. If you arrive early in the morning, you can enjoy the resort and pool until it is time to board the bus in the late afternoon for the 2½-hour ride north to La Paz.
After Ashley and I returned from our craft beer outing and nice long stroll to town and back, we noticed the crowd of our fellow cruisers growing at the hospitality suite. UnCruise staffers checked us in, got us our name badges and helped handle luggage to get in onto the buses. Then, we set off on our journey to the ship.
Spirits were high as the two buses rolled along the road on the Pacific Coast. Travelers got acquainted, and we were in awe with an incredible preview of what this region has to offer. The cruise took place in early February, and this is prime breeding season for whales who come to mate, give birth to calves and socialize.
During our bus ride, we spotted hundreds of whales in the waters close to the coastline. It was a breathtaking sight and really set expectations high for the upcoming journey.
Our buses pulled into the port at La Paz just as the sun was setting. Residents and tourists were gathered along the malecon enjoying evening strolls or sitting on benches and basking in the glow of a magical sunset.
Our group of 54 cruisers tumbled out of the coaches and were greeted on the pier by Expedition Team Leader Katherine Mena, Capt. Andréa Kosto and several members of their team, who hustled out to help with luggage and show us to our cabins.
Our first sunset of the week.
After that, it was a muster drill to go over safety procedures, a brief look at our week ahead, a delicious welcome aboard dinner and a quick wander around the ship to get familiar with our home base for our upcoming adventures.
My modest and cozy cabin with a window view on Safari Voyager.
Then, we all called it a night to get some good rest before we hit the ground running the next morning. I unpacked in my cozy stateroom and gazed out the large window to see the lights of La Paz disappear in the distance as Safari Voyager steadily made her way out into the Gulf of California.
Baja California Sur and Our Week of Activities
The bow space in front of the bridge on our ship was the best spot to relax in the sunshine and stay on the lookout for whales, mobulas, dolphins and other wildlife.
Baja California is a mountain-filled peninsula that serves as the western boundary to the Gulf of California (also known as the Sea of Cortez or Sea or Cortes), separating that body of water from the Pacific Ocean. To the east is mainland Mexico.
The Sea of Cortez is about 700 miles long and features a diverse range of marine life and seabirds. The vast desert landscapes on the peninsula connect to the beaches and the sea, making a fascinating environment for all kinds of creatures on land and in the waters. The region averages only 11 inches of rain per year, and this dry climate creates an environment to which certain types of plants and mammals have adapted. It also takes a unique expertise and toughness for humans who have called this place home -- from centuries ago until now.
Each day, members of the UnCruise expedition team would take us out to explore. We could choose to participate in strenuous hikes up dry riverbeds to scenic vistas or go on kayaking outings, snorkeling sessions, beach-combing walks and exploratory hikes in the surrounding Sonoran Desert.
We were right in the middle of it all.
We went on a few fun hikes on the challenging terrain in the arroyos located throughout Baja California Sur.
And when we weren't ashore on our thrilling excursions, we would slip into great informal chats with the expert guides who love to share their knowledge and passion about animals, the environment, nature, geology and culture of the Sea of Cortez area and everywhere else they have worked or studied.
The program also offers presentations each night after dinner in the ship’s lounge.
Expedition guide Gabe, who is from Mexico, talked about his passion for Baja California and his studies of the culture, traditions, flora, fauna and indigenous people dating back centuries to the Péricu people, the aboriginal inhabitants of the southernmost part of the peninsula. Their presence dates to perhaps 10,000 years ago in the region, but by mid-1800s became culturally extinct, mostly because of the contacts (through disease, war and genocide) from European missionaries and conquerors.
We found amazing views at the top of our hike at Isla Partida.
We also heard chats about birds and whales. Expedition guide Christian took us all to the top sun deck for a fun stargazing session when we were anchored for the night at Isla Danzante. The sky was clear, and the lack of light pollution let us take in the full scale and majesty of the twinkling stars and bright planets.
By the end of the week, cruisers also bonded onboard during after-dinner cocktails or a raucous trivia contest.
However, the best parts of the voyage for this group — which included avid photographers and energetic hikers and thrill-seekers of all ages (from 30s to mid-70s) — were when we got off the ship to embrace the wilderness, animals and attractions on shore.
It’s All-Out Action All Week Long
Our snorkel session with the California sea lion pups of Los Islotes was a highlight of the voyage.
We sailed away from La Paz and made our way toward the more remote parts of the gulf.
After a series of snorkel and wetsuit fittings, we headed out to get wet for the first time, with a snorkeling session at Isla San Jose. The water was a chilly 60 degrees, and we saw a nice variety of fish in the coral. There were scorpion fish, angel fish, puffer fish and even a moray eel and baby octopus.
Some others in our group enjoyed a little kayaking, and we got our first look at the interesting landscape here, where the desert meets the sea. Guides led us on a short hike into the desert to look at the salt flats and the giant cardon cactuses that speckle the landscapes.
This was all a warm-up for our big snorkeling outing the next day, though.
We would swim with the California sea lion pups that are part of a big colony at Los Islotes at the Espiritu Santo Achipelago. This is a highlight, along with the gray whale encounters that cruisers really look forward to on this itinerary with UnCruise Adventures.
The sea lion colony is located in the island group and region that once was designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, so it owns a history as a protected and well-monitored attraction. Certified guides arrived to greet us at our ship in the morning and to take us by boat over to the colony.
Those who didn't want to snorkel joined a boat tour around the island for a great photo safari, and I saw some fantastic pics they were able to get from their vantage point. We saw adults and pups sleeping in the sun and wrestling around on the rocks.
Meanwhile, I joined the groups in the waters to enjoy the most magical and up-close encounters with the curious pups, who darted around us. They would approach our cameras, leap from the water and spin around far below us in the depths. They are so acrobatic!
We had about 50 minutes to snorkel, and the water was chilly, but nobody really noticed or mentioned it (like they had the day before). Really, our time flew by too quickly, and we all protested when it was time to head back to our boat. Many of my fellow cruisers proclaimed the outing to easily be one of the most incredible experiences they had enjoyed in their extensive travels.
Ty and the team on Safari Voyager prepared an epic barbecue lunch for us.
Back on Safari Voyager, the crew surprised us all with a delicious barbecue lunch feast, set out on the outer decks for us to eat in the sunshine while taking in the stunning views that surrounded the ship.
Later, we set off to Playa Bonanza for beach time. A few of us went with guide Luis on a short hike in the desert to see the cactus and other plants and flowers.
The whole day was perfect. Then, the weather changed — quickly!
The Gulf of California is notorious for its strong El Norte winds. These come on suddenly, and we saw the phenomenon in action as the beach sands started swirling and the waves began rising. Our guides hustled us off Playa Bonanza and back to Safari Voyager.
The stunning Tabor Canyon hike really put our group of hikers to the test.
The winds kept our plans flexible over the course of the next few days, and the expedition staff and crew found safe harbor for the ship while still providing fun options for active days. We had skiff tours to see marine birds and whales. I had a great time on two challenging hikes up rock-filled arroyos (dry streambeds) on Isla Partida and in Puerto Escondido on the Tabor Canyon route up to a refreshingly cold pool of water.
These steep-sided hiking routes require hikers to scramble over large boulders, and we were treated to incredible views and the sweet sounds of the slowly trickling streams and winds that whistle through the valley.
A handful of us took the opportunity to strip down and take a plunge in the pool at the top of our Tabor Canyon hike. We were three-plus miles up the valley, and it was delightful to cool off and rejuvenate before we headed back. Our group of two dozen avid hikers also relished the chance to sprawl out on the rocks and bask in the sunshine in virtual silence to hear nature's beautiful soundtrack of bird calls, running water and whispering breezes.
The adventures were plentiful. We were at Puerto Escondido for two separate days. Once was planned as the launching point for our visit to the Pacific Coast town of Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos and Magdalena Bay to see gray whales. The second stop was to escape the winds and high seas.
This flexibility is a natural part of expedition cruising, as the program you see in the brochure is always subject to change because of weather or based on animal activity. In short, the captain and crew will always adjust the program with the goal of giving you the best experience possible. UnCruise does this with incredible skill, especially in the Sea of Cortez. It has more than 20 years of history here and the knowledge to easily fall back on its tried-and-true Plan Bs, Plan Cs and Plan Ds.
Loreto was the first Spanish colonial settlement in the region. It's a beautiful town with restaurants, bars, shops and historically interesting buildings.
After the Tabor Canyon hike, we returned to the ship for lunch and learned that the persistent windy conditions would keep up anchored at Puerto Escondido for the rest of the day. So, with no sailing, snorkeling or other water-based activities in the mix, the UnCruise team scrambled to get us shuttle rides into Loreto for guided tours and free time to explore this pretty coastal town that was founded in 1697 and was the first Spanish colonial settlement in Baja California Sur.
We had a guided tour through Loreto.
When we heard that we would get to spend the afternoon here, we all let out a little cheer. It seems that we were up for something a little different after spending four consecutive days in the wilderness. Plus, we had all heard about how charming Loreto is, and we were eager to have a look.
Loreto dates to 1697. Today, it sits on the shores of the protected Loreto Bay National Park.
After our guided walk along the coastline, to the church and through the town square to see the murals and learn about the history of the region, I joined my friends Kelly, Ashley and Valerie in breaking away for a round of beers at the town's craft brewery El Zopilote Brewing Co. It offered friendly service, hearty guacamole and a surprisingly satisfying array of tasty beer varieties.
Our nice selection of beers from El Zopilote Brewing Co. in Loreto.
We had a two-hour bus ride to reach Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos and Magdalena Bay for our day with the gray whales. The bay offers an ideal sanctuary for the whales who come for breeding season from late December to early April.
This area also is the habitat for all kinds of resident and migratory birds, as well as sea turtles. The gray whales travel some 15,000 to 20,000 miles from the Arctic each year, and the area is a wonderful feeding and birthing area. We saw dozens of mothers and their young in the waters. The animals approached our panga boats, and we snapped pictures, took video and let out gasps in awe of the beautiful and massive creatures.
Cruisers would often gather on the outer decks of Safari Voyager when whales were spotted.
By now, we had already experienced the most epic week you could imagine, with all the hikes, snorkeling sessions and sightings of the region's marine mammals.
And we still had one more day ahead.
Safari Voyager anchored in the bay at Bahia Agua Verde, a remote beach and hilly community located a couple hours south of Loreto.
The pristine waters and blue skies made this a fantastic playground for all of us UnCruisers to celebrate our amazing week together. We were treated to burro rides up into hills, along the beach and through an oasis. The Romero family of rancheros came from their home to meet our group and lead the burro rides.
Our burro ride took through the hillside and offered amazing views of the beaches and bay.
The family and its patriarch Alejo Romero are longtime friends of UnCruise CEO Dan Blanchard, who sailed with us during the week and was excited to reunited with his friends. Blanchard connected with the Romeros when he traveled in Baja California Sur decades ago. He told me a great story about how he got caught in a storm and was trapped in the region for a bit. Alejo (pictured riding with me below) and his wife took him in and gave him plenty of food and drink during his stay.
It’s these types of long-term connections and knowledge of the place that make you realize exactly how UnCruise is able to design such an intimate experience for its guests.
The Romeros also set up some tables to sell crafts to our group, and we took turns hanging at the beach, going for walks and hopping into the kayaks. A beach bar was set up, and the drinks were flowing.
It was a perfectly festive way to end the week.
Gourmet Meals Fuel Our Spirit
From my very early trips with UnCruise, I was impressed with the quality and variety of delicious meals that are available onboard. I now have sailed with the line seven times, and it just gets better and better.
Initially for me, the meals were a bit of an afterthought, though, when I booked my trips. I was all about the UnCruise hiking and kayaking and bushwhacking and polar plunges. Now, however, I really look forward to the cuisine as a true highlight of these expedition voyages.
The chefs put together a creative and tasty menu filled with regional specialties (or cool twists on cuisine found in the areas that you sail). The breads, pastries and desserts are so good, too!
Below, I'll show you a sampling of what we enjoyed on Safari Voyager in the Sea of Cortez, as Chef Jerry Perez and Pastry Chef Amanda Randall thrilled cruisers throughout the entire week on our trip.
Aside from the hearty on-deck barbecue lunch, we always had a wonderful selection for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The daily menu offered choices from the Farm, Sea and Garden to suit all dietary needs.
Chef Jerry would introduce his lunch and dinner menu during breakfast each day, and we would get an idea of what we wanted. UnCruise restaurant staff come around each morning to get our best guesses as to what we would want for the day's meals. This is a smart system that greatly cuts down on food waste.
Many cruisers like all the choices so much that they opt for a "half and half" to instead get a smaller portion of two meals instead of having to select just one of the enticing menu options.
Here are some of our meals and desserts from the week in the Sea of Cortez:
Beef tenderloin, red snapper, portobello stuffed with quinoa, red rice pilaf with sun-blistered baby squash, grouper, beef short ribs, ratatouille, duck with raspberry in a white wine reduction, mahi mahi, black bean sope, chocolate cake, butterscotch pudding, passion fruit cheesecake, Baja-style roasted chicken, yellowtail fish with herb butter, banana cake with chocolate mousse-topped salted caramel popcorn, rack of lamb with black-pepper crusted chimichurri sauce, tuna poke bowl, Greek lunch of chicken and falafel with garlic rice and pita bread, prime rib, lobster tail and veggie papoosa.
Additional treats included a Taco Tuesday lunch with pork cooked low and slow for 12 hours and a decadent Sunday brunch spread. Of course, there was always a selection of special cookies or brownies set out each afternoon in the lounge by Chef Amanda.
You can also always find a wonderful variety of cocktails and beers at the bar (all meals and drinks included in your cruise fare). Bartender Bronson mixed up his creative drinks of the day for happy hours, and UnCruise stocks regional beers. We had a good variety of craft brews from Mexico and Panama.
A Note About the Strong Conservation Efforts
UnCruise is an industry leader in sustainable travel practices.
This is ingrained in almost every aspect of the trips it offers. Cruisers will see this in the simple and obvious things onboard, such as no single-use plastics. Metal water bottles are offered for your use during the trip (in case you didn't bring your own). A water bottle-filling station is situated at the bar area in the lounge, and cruisers make it part of their routines to fill up and stay properly hydrated each day.
Staterooms also feature a variety of toiletries in the bathrooms, with UnCruise offering shampoo, hand lotion, body wash and conditioner from a company in Costa Rica. These items are available in dispensers that are refilled as needed.
For the dining program, I mention above how the ordering system and the "half and half" smaller portions help reduce waste. UnCruise Adventures also innovates by sourcing produce and meat from farmers in Baja California. The company puts in its order a year ahead of time so it can grow the right amount on its dedicated farm that will be used onboard the sailings throughout the Sea of Cortez season.
Travelers can rest assured that UnCruise takes seriously the credo to leave a place better than you found it.
In that respect, I always feel much better after an expedition with UnCruise.
And the desire to get out there again soon always hits me as soon as I step off the ship for the last time.
Thanks for reading,
JR
Read About My Other Adventures with UnCruise
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Back to Nature: Panama and Costa Rica with UnCruise Adventures
UnCruise Adventures Alaska Expedition Gives Rise to an "Extreme Team"
UnCruise Offers Unbelievable Experience in Alaska
Nine Amazing Things About an UnCruise Trip in the Pacific Northwest