8 Best Things to Do When You Visit Newfoundland

I got “screeched in” during my first trip to Newfoundland. When in St. John's, I suppose. Just one of the several new friends I made on my visit.

Newfoundland hangs off the northeast edge of North America, an island that can seem like a world of its own to outsiders.

I dropped into St. John's, the largest city and capital of the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador. My weekend visit went far too quickly, but I got a small taste and brief glimpse of what it means to be a proud resident of this quirky place.

The island has a population of just more than a half-million people, living together on a large, bitterly cold rock in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean. The natives are descended from a centuries-long heritage of rough-and-tumble sailors and fishermen who landed upon the coasts of Newfoundland from Ireland and England.

The stunning rocky coastline is one of the distinguishing features of Newfoundland and is home to thousands of puffins who thrive in colonies there.

The residents today still revel in their history, proud to be able to withstand the rough elements that persist nearly year-round and knowing they share a special bond that mainlanders will never be able to understand.

Yes, Newfoundlanders are tough. But that does not mean they are unfriendly. In fact, quite the opposite.

They openly welcome visitors to come give the island a try, and revel in sharing some of their admittedly quirky traditions and the unique features of the island.

Here are eight fun things to try when you travel to Newfoundland.

Get “Screeched In”

The ceremony requires visitors to kiss a big codfish before downing a shot of Screech, which is a Jamaican rum.

Like all visitors to the island, I was invited to be "Screeched In."

This is a welcoming ceremony to initiate visitors as honorary Newfoundlanders. So, there I was in the back yard of a the Mallard Cottage restaurant, which is an old wooden residential structure that is listed on the Canada registry of historic places, unsure exactly what this Screech-In ceremony held for me.

It's a boisterous little event, and I was joined by a dozen others who are asked to eat a salted capelin fish, a bit of Newfoundland steak (fried bologna) and kiss a big codfish before downing a shot of Screech, which is a Jamaican rum. The ceremony can only be officiated by a native and is not complete until we complete a recitation. Asked "Are ye a screecher?" Our response is "Deed I is, me ol' cock, and long may yer big jib draw!" This means "Yes, I am, my old friend, and may your sails always catch wind."

We stumble through our responses with varying degrees of success and are all welcomed as honorary Newfoundlanders for our visits. It's a truly fun way to kick off our trip and serves as prelude for a fine night of dining and drinking with new friends.

Go to Cape Spear at Sunrise

You can come to Cape Spear to witness the first sunrise for North America each day.

St. John's is one of the oldest cities in North America (some accounts claim it is the oldest) and is the easternmost city. The point of the island is farthest east of them all is Cape Spear. The Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site sits on a rocky promontory and is a popular place to visit to see the first rays of sun reach the continent each morning. It is an amazing place to sit and turn your back to the ocean and realize the entirety of North America is all stretched out in front of you. You can also spot whales and numerous seabirds while here.

Go On a Drive to Witness the Charms of the Island

A drive around the island yields plenty of beautiful natural sights as you go along the coastline and see pretty harbors, homes and villages. It's the names of some of the villages and towns that catch the eye of visitors. Perhaps the most-photographed road sign is the one indicating you have arrived at the edge of the town of Dildo. Tourists seem to find this roadside marker especially stimulating.

Passion was at play, obviously, when they named Heart's Desire, Heart's Delight, Heart's Content and Cupids. I stopped to snap a shot of the colorful fishing shacks near a bay in Heart's Delight.

Catch the Beat with Those Ugly Sticks

The Ugly Stick doesn't look like much, but it adds a good sound to the musical arrangement.

The signature instrument on Newfoundland points to imagination and ingenuity in these parts. The Ugly Stick is a beauty of a music-making contraption. I was amazed at the sound it generated as I listened to a band play at a bar one evening. I asked what it was, and the musician told me all about his Ugly Stick, which is fashioned from a broom handle, beer bottle caps and a tin can. It's all anchored by an old rubber boot at the base. 

Explore Quidi Vidi

My favorite village is Quidi Vidi. You can spot the brewery in the green building at the head of the marina.

This charming fishing village (pronounced Kiddy Viddy) has a gorgeous harbor that sits at the base of a hillside, where you can spot residents out foraging for wild berries. Signal Hill also looms above the neighborhood and offers nice hiking paths.

Quidi Vidi is also home to Mallard Cottage, the historic wooden Irish-Newfoundland-style building that is an amazing restaurant that serves up regional cuisine. But my favorite reason to come here is Quidi Vidi Brewing Co., where you can sit back and enjoy the scenery while downing varieties such as Iceberg Beer.

Revel in the Nightlife on George Street

George Street in downtown St. John's offers a bustling bar scene.

This small roadway within St. John's is the heartbeat of the nightlife. Many of my fellow travelers compared it to a mini New Orleans' Bourbon Street. It transforms into a pedestrian-only street in the evenings, as it is filled with numerous bars and nightclubs.

Activity ramps up after the sun goes down, and the party continues until early morning. You can also find plenty of food vendors and 24-hour eateries to hit up after you work up a hunger while partying all night. 

Take a Scenic Boat Tour to Spot the Vibrant Wildlife

We could see thousands of seabirds over the waters and along the coasts during a sunset boat tour.

You can spot easily whales and seabirds from the hillsides and coastal areas. This is enchanting for visitors but just a way of life for resident Newfoundlanders. I suggest trying a boat tour to get out onto the water to go spotting whales and puffins.

You can expect to come face to face with thousands of Atlantic puffins, which are the island's mascot and have attained protected status, meaning there are numerous colonies that make their homes along the rocky coastline. Whales, dolphins and porpoises also ply the waters off Newfoundland. Minke, humpbacks, blues or orcas can be spotted. Sea kayaking and fishing excursions are also available.

Fit Right in With Your Stylish Sou’wester

Any true Newfoundlander owns a Sou'wester rain hat.

The rugged islanders have made a splash in the world of fashion. You’ll look like a true islander if you get yourself a Sou'wester, a traditional collapsible rain hat that really comes in handy when the winds and rains come whipping off the seas. Note: that gutter goes at the front with the big flap toward the back (the idea is to keep that rain from running down your neck. How do I look?

Thanks for reading, and you can find a few more of the best things to do in Newfoundland in my video below.

Happy travels!

JR