I Took a Danube River Cruise with Riverside Luxury Cruises

I was excited for my cruise on the famed Mozart river ship for my Danube cruise with Riverside Luxury Cruises. (Photos by John Roberts)

When I arrived to Budapest for my river cruise, it was a hot and sunny afternoon in July.

The weather was a bit sticky, and I was tired from my overnight flights to get here from Denver. But I was feeling energized and excited for another Danube cruise, this time on Riverside Mozart. The 154-passenger luxury ship has been a legend on this majestic waterway for decades, and I was looking forward to the refreshing breezes that would come when we started our journey up the river.

My flight arrived in late morning, and I took a cab to the pier to get onboard. Friendly staff greeted me with smiles as I stepped up the gangway and entered the lobby of the quiet ship.

Being among the first to arrive for the weeklong voyage, I was happy to get into my room to unpack and snag a couple hours of rest to recover from my travels.

I wanted to be refreshed for the cruise adventures ahead.

This was my eighth time on the Danube, and it’s always wonderful. I have cruised with Viking, AmaWaterways, Scenic, Viva Cruises and others on this beautiful river.

My Danube Cruise with New River Line Viva Cruises

Our Epic Cruise on AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna

However, I had a feeling that this trip on Mozart would be something different. Here is a recap of my trip and some information about Riverside Luxury Cruises, so you know what to expect when you take a Danube River cruise on Riverside Mozart.

About Riverside Luxury Cruises

This is a new cruise line that started in 2023, so I was on one of the first voyages offered by the company. Riverside Luxury Cruises was started by brother and sister Gregor and Anouchka Gerlach, who have expanded their business to river cruising from a longtime family heritage in luxury boutique hotels.

They also own Seaside Hotels, a portfolio of beautiful properties in Germany and Spain’s Canary Islands.

The siblings started Riverside Luxury Cruises by purchasing the ships of the former Crystal River Cruises, which went bankrupt. The fleet includes Riverside Mahler, Riverside Debussy, Riverside Bach, Riverside Ravel and Riverside Mozart, which cruises on the Danube.

Mozart has been well known for many years because it was the largest passenger ship on the Danube and for offering an unparalleled level of service and more space per passenger than any river ship.

Riverside Luxury Cruises has been refurbishing the ships and relaunching them on a staggered schedule to sail routes around Europe. As of this writing, Riverside Debussy offers cruises on the Rhine River and waterways in Belgium, and Riverside Ravel has voyages on the Rhone River in France.

Bach and Mahler will join the active fleet as Riverside’s business expands. Riverside Luxury Cruises is an all-inclusive line.

About Riverside Mozart

The ship was the first of its kind designed at a double-wide dimension (compared with the typical design for European river ships). AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna also is double wide, and these two ships have the most space and a bigger range of onboard amenities because of their innovative deck plans.

Riverside Mozart features four decks. The top sun deck is filled with cushioned chairs, couches and sun loungers and is the location for a wonderful barbecue dinner. The culinary team cooks outdoors on a two Green Egg smokers to create memorable meals at sunset.

The cuisine I enjoyed on the ship ranks as the best I’ve had on any river cruise.

There also is a pop-up Vista Bar on the top deck for nightly cocktail hours or service throughout the day as you relax during periods in port or while enjoying scenic sailing.

Riverside also features four restaurants, the main dining room (Waterside), a chef’s table experience (extra charge), casual Bistro and Blue, an intimate venue serving lunches and dinners at the aft on Deck 3 with the benefit of 270-degree panoramic views.

Waterside serves breakfasts and lunches with a combo small menu and a buffet area called Marketplace. You can get eggs made to order and a selection of meats, cheese, fruits, muesli, breads and pastries in the morning. For lunch, you might have a carving station or fish or pasta dishes.

Seating inside Waterside, the main dining room.

Bistro serves great sandwiches and a tasty burger and fries for lunch, as well as breakfasts (yes, you can get omelets here, too.)

I loved the tapas-style dinner nights offered at both Bistro and in Blue, with an incredibly tasty selection of dishes created by Chef Paula Iacoblev and her team during our voyage.

Vintage Room is located in a private space within Waterside, and I joined some fellow cruisers for a delightful 12-course wine-pairing meal ($295 pp for up to 12 cruisers).

The ship has three lounge spaces. Palm Court is the main traditional lounge with a piano and stage. This is where cruisers will have most of their entertainment, enrichment and time to socialize. The Cove is a relaxing and bustling bar space located on the wing and serving as the entryway into Palm Court.

There also is a cigar lounge, Connoisseur Club, with a selection of cigars, brandy, whisky and cognac.

Down on Deck 2, is the most incredible facility you’ll find on any river cruise ship. Riverside Mozart features a large pool and a big hot tub in a beautiful space that serves as a serene oasis. Natural light streams in through the windows at the bow of the ship to fill the relaxation room that has comfy loungers.

The relaxation area in the large spa and pool facility onboard Riverside Mozart.

I spent time here every afternoon, maybe after my workout or after a massage at the nearby spa. The onboard spa offers massage treatments and hair-styling services. There is a changing room with lockers and fluffy robes and slippers for cruisers to use while they immerse themselves in relaxation here.

One level down, on Deck 1, the ship has a huge fitness center, with weights, cardio equipment, yoga mats, kettlebells, benches and a fridge filled with bottle of water.

Our Itinerary

The cruise lasted a week and went from Budapest to Vienna. We had stops in large and small ports, visiting capital cities and small towns as the ship made its way past rolling hills, vineyards and the picturesque Wachau Valley.

On Day 1, we got onboard the Riverside Mozart, settled in and enjoyed a barbecue dinner at sunset alongside the Elizabeth Bridge. I learned that I would be sailing with just 10 other passengers on this huge luxury ship.

Vista Grill eats during our first night onboard.

After dinner, the captain took the ship down the Danube to Margaret Island and back, the classic illumination cruise to witness the stunning spectacle of Budapest’s night-time lights display. The Parliament building, bridges and other structures like Budapest Castle become bathed in gold and white lights every evening.

The stunning illumination of the Parliament Building during an evening cruise in Budapest.

Riverside Luxury Cruises had bookings that ebbed and flowed throughout the first season, an inconsistency that could be expected for a line that has little name recognition in North America. The company jumped right into the season after buying the popular Crystal river ships in a bid to ramp up its operations and build its brand on the run.

Our group got to know one another quickly, and soon we were a tight-knit family of cruisers ready to enjoy the adventures. It started the next day with a tour of the Parliament building and city tour in Budapest, seeing both sides of the river in Buda and Pest.

Inside the Parliament Building in Budapest.

Riverside Mozart set off at 6:30 p.m. toward our next destination: Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia.

We would sail throughout the evening and next morning until pulling into port at 1:30 p.m. So, we enjoyed a full morning on the ship, where I was able to get in a workout in the big gym and unwind for a while at the pool. I had a hearty lunch at the buffet, which featured monkfish and handmade pasta with lemon butter.

By the time we arrived to Bratislava, one of my favorite cities in all of Europe, I was ready for my excursion. I signed up for a long bike tour, and I was the only one who did, so I had a private tour with Linda, a friendly guide who cheerily showed me around her home country. Mozart carries a fleet of bikes onboard for cruisers to use in each port at their leisure or for organized bike tour like mine.

Riverside Mozart carries about 20 bikes for cruisers to use.

Linda and I set off for a long morning of pedaling. We would cover 37 kilometers and see spots on both sides of the Danube River on a sun-splashed day. She took me along a river path to start the tour, and we were on our way to the town of Devin. This route took us past the Iron Gates, a region of the Danube gorge that forms a boundary with Serbia to the south and Romania to the north.

We had a ride through town, and Linda told me a bit about the history of Devin, which sits at the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers and was located just inside the Iron Curtain, near the border of Austria, during the Cold War.

We visited a restaurant and had a selection of snacks and drinks that are popular in the region, such as the Kofola cola that Linda says is like an energy drink or refreshment for people.

Day 4 of our sailing brought us to Krems, as we entered Austria. I joined a few others who had picked the tour of Kittenberger Gardens. Others chose an excursion to see a vineyard and try the wines made from the region’s famous Gruner Veltliner grapes.

The gardens were OK, not exactly what I was expecting, though, as it was more like a commercial facility for people to choose landscaping and gardening services for their homes. It was quite impressive, for sure, and it offers a lot of fun things for kids and families, but I was happy to breeze through in about 45 minutes.

Some of the craft beers I found at Brau Schneider.

I had seen a craft brewery just outside the garden, though, and as luck would have it, our guide Ari knows the owners of Brau Schneider. I broke off with my new best friend Ari, and he walked with me over to the brewery, where I met brewmaster Will Kite. He was kind enough to give me a little tour of the facility. I sipped a couple of their beers and enjoyed my time chatting with new friends before rejoining my small group to hop on the bus back to the ship.

These little unexpected delights are what makes travel so much fun.

Scenic sailing through the Waucha Valley on Riverside Mozart.

Back onboard, we sailed in the afternoon through the Wachau Valley, always a favorite part of a Danube cruise. I hit the gym and pool, of course, and then, we had another barbecue dinner to take advantage of the gorgeous weather and scenery.

The next morning, we were Linz, Austria. I had been to this destination a few times but had never really explored the city. Most cruisers come here and hop off in the morning to take long bus rides to go to Salzburg, and that’s what everyone else did on this visit. Of course, that is always a great choice if you’ve never been to Salzburg, birthplace of Mozart.

I opted for the city tour, and once again, I was alone with my guide, Mariane. We wandered the city and explored the town square, went up a tower to get a pretty overview of the skyline and river. I also got to try one of the city’s well-known treats, a Linzer cake, with its tart redcurrant jam filling.

The tour also took me through the massive Mariendom Cathedral, and I learned about the interesting Hermit in the Tower experience that some people choose to come and stay in a period of isolation and reflection in a small room in the church’s tower.

The tour was enlightening, as I also learned that Hitler considered Linz his hometown, so there are places around the city that relate to this fact, as well.

Riverside Mozart stayed overnight in port, so we had a nice tapas dinner in Blue onboard before our signature event of the cruise, a private tour of the Lentos Kunstmuseum on the Danube. The curators treated us to a reception with musicians playing just for us. Then, we had a lovely stroll through the museum of modern art that has been around for more than 20 years in its spot right on the river.

It’s known as much for its architectural elegance as for the collections of modern paintings and sculptures on display inside.

We visited Mauthausen in the morning and Grein in the afternoon on Day 6 of our voyage, as we continued our adventures in Austria. From Mauthausen, I joined a tour to the city of Steyr in the morning. Then, after sailing to the small riverside town of Grein, I grabbed a bike from the ship and went on a long ride into the countryside along the river and then back through town.

Our final stop, the next day, was Vienna. This marvelous capital city is filled with so much to see and do. I chose to explore by bike once again, as I am familiar with the city from my previous visits. I took advantage of the pleasant weather to pedal to the city island Donauinsel.

I always like the chance to dip in the Danube.

Danube Island sits in the middle of the river and features bars, restaurants, beaches and biking/walking paths. I zipped around the island for a bit, hopped in the river for a quick dip and then rode into the heart of Vienna to the bustling Stephansplatz.

St. Stephen’s Square is where you will find the towering and impressive St. Stephen’s Cathedral (try walking up the spiral staircase to the top). You also can enjoy the shops, restaurants, coffee shops and museums that fill this district.

Our Chef’s Table Menu

We had a chef’s table dinner in the Vintage Room back on Riverside Mozart, and our group enjoyed some post-meal cocktails and a duet performance in Palm Court from an opera singer and pianist.

Food, Fun and New Friends

My trip with Riverside Luxury Cruises showcased the very best in food and service. The crew and shore excursion team offered an unparalleled level of care and attention to every detail.

But it was the meals that really made this cruise extraordinary in my mind.

Riverside wanted to have an emphasis on its culinary program. Mozart General Manager Sonja Gruber said the line’s chefs are given the freedom to be creative in an effort to wow cruisers and offer a truly international food experience.

Chef Paula and her team crafted delicious meals for us — including two tapas-style extravaganzas and two al fresco barbecue dinners on the Sun Deck.

Waterside is the main dining room, with its Marketplace buffet area for breakfasts and lunches. Dinners are fully plated multicourse meals with a menu that always has meat, fish and vegetarian options.

You can find dishes like candied pumpkin and sweet potatoes, slow-roasted beef tenderloin with truffle fries and filet of Danube catfish.

The cruise always offers chances to eat on the sun deck at the Vista Grill. This outdoor eatery utilizes two large Green Egg smokers. We dined on grilled halloumi, beef ribeye, butterfish, shrimp, octopus, orange-infused scallops, smoked tofu, vegetables and caramelized camembert.

Bistro is a casual venue midship on Deck 3. You can get breakfast, with a small buffet featuring healthy options like fruits, yogurts, smoothies, juice shots, muesli, seeds and nuts. You also can select from the fresh-made breads, pastries and French toast, as well as deli meats, vegetables, bacon and sausage.

Eggs made to order, waffles and specialty coffees are on the small menu.

Room service is also available. Breakfast is included in your fare for room service, but other meals come with an a la carte surcharge.

Overall, I had a blast with my small group of new friends. It was wonderful to finally experience this special river ship, and I am happy that Riverside is operating Mozart and the other former Crystal river ships.

Let’s hope that more people give this new cruise line a try so that it can thrive and keep offering memorable journeys like this for years to come.